100 followers giveaway! And my second attempt at bramaking

Hello!
I have been really busy in the past 3 weeks with beeing on vacation, and am therefore a few days late in my celebration of 100 followers of The Handstitched Files. Bad blogger. I have also been quite busy with this and battling off weeds.


(We bought a summerhouse, my boyfriend and I. Despite it being barely 40 square meters, I find it quite overwhelming. Funny how something that should be quite simple and actually quite exciting can turn into something hard to manage for reasons not really related to the thing itself. Buying a summerhouse turned a few things upside down for me, but it's settling down, I hope. It's also been much more work than expected. The previous owner left everything in the house, down to dessert spoons and rusty pot hangers, wich is both a blessing and a curse. I have lost count of how many times we filled our car and drove to the landfill. At the same time, it is nice not having to buy a thing. It's been lots of work trying to clean the house while repairing a leaking roof, but I think I'm starting to get on top of things. And having grass between my toes while drinking my afternoon coffee is a quite amazing feeling!)

Anyways, it is never too late to celebrate!

I did not have to think really hard to decide what I would be offering. I want to celebrate the joyfullness, the creativity and the open-mindedness of this wonderful little community that we have. And what better than an indie pattern to do that? So I am offering a pattern from my favourite pattern company, Deer and Doe. (I am not affiliated to Deer and Doe, by the way, I just really love Eleonores designs!) My love of Deer and Doe is recorded here, and I have a Belladone and a Centaurée, both already worn several times, still to be blogged (bad, bad blogger). So up for grabs is the pattern of your choice from Deer and Doe's catalog. The giveaway will be opened until sunday the 17th of August, and I will draw a winner on the next day. To enter, simply leave a comment on this post. Why don't you tell me what you have been up to this summer?

Ok, back to sewing! I have LOTS of unphotographed/unblogged projects, but I have been really excited about lingerie lately, so I wanted to share my second bra. This is also Pin-Up Girls Classic bra, although I modified it quite a lot this time. I changed the fabric straps for elastic straps (and this alone would make a world of difference for the sexiness factor of the bra!). I also lowered the rise of the cups. They still provide good coverage, but feels much prettier. Finally, I changed, ever so slightly, the curve of the cup seams, flattening them a tiny bit, which made quite a difference in the final shape of the cups. I am much happier with the fit and feel of this bra, compared with the first. It is very comfortable, too, and way prettier! I have happily put it in my lingerie drawer and use it regularly. The fabric and findings are from a kit I purchased at Sewing chest. It's a great kit, with nice fabrics, and it includes everything for a bra, including lace, powermesh and stable tricot, as well as all the elastics and trimmings. It even has tiny ribbon bows! I find it hard still to judge the quality of lingerie fabrics, but these felt quite nice, and were nice to work with. I did not realise when I purchased the kit, but the materials are not enough for a matching panty, these are sold as a separate kit. Just something to keep in mind! I struggled once again with attaching the hooks and eyes tape, anyone has tips or suggestions? I also had some issues with bulkyness in a few places. Maddie recently suggested hammering down bulky areas, so maybe I'll try this next time.

Pattern testing: Alameda

 

Pattern: Alameda dress by Pauline Alice. Size 36 in the bust and waist, graded to 40 at the hips. I was asked to test this pattern before it's release.

Fabric: Polyester crepe, bought locally at Glada tyger, linen-look cotton from Minerva for the lining.

 

I am a Pauline Alice fangirl. I have bought and made the Cami dress (sorry, still unblogged!), the Ninot jacket and the Carme blouse, and these last two are some of my favorite me-mades. So when Pauline asked if I would like to help her out and test her upcoming pattern, I jumped at the opportunity!

To be honest, I don't think I would have chosen this style by myself. I am very conscious of my hips and I thought beforehand that this style would really emphasize them. But I thought that this was a good time to stretch myself a bit style-wise. I sometimes feel like I get stuck in the same "safe" silhouettes. Sewing my clothes means that I don't get to try them before they are completed and see if I like the look (I know, I know, that is what muslins are for...). So I put my trust in Pauline and dug out this pretty floral fabric.

The Alameda has a cute and unusual sithouette. It has a fitted bodice with princess lines, a waistband, and a flirty little flounce attached to a fitted skirt. In the spirit of testing, I added piping on the princess seams of the bodice and skirt, but I am still unsure about if I would prefer the dress without them, or maybe in a more tonal colour. I chose a fabric with a nice drape, so that the flounce would twirl nicely, but lined with cotton. Partly to keep the poly away from my skin, and partly to give the bodice and skirt the structure they need. As always, Paulines instructions are clear and clever and the dress came together without a hitch.

I am very happy about how this dress turned out. For me, it's a great everyday dress to wear to work, and it actually has everything I look for in a design. Simple, clean lines that are not overworked, but an element of fun or edge. It's more modern and trendy than what I am usually drawn to, but nevertheless I will keep twirling in this one too!

Georgina

Pattern: Georgina, by République du chiffon, size for bust and waist, 40 for the hips. Cap sleeves removed.
Fabric: Printed  silk purchased at Mood NYC and black cotton shirting, also from Mood.

Oh Georgina. Although I immediately fell in love with the design of the back, there was something I was unsure about this pattern. Then I saw Clo's sleeveless version (I love how she changed the neckline to a V-neck, too), and something clicked: it was the sleeves I was disliking. How had I not thought myself about making this simple modification still escapes me, but it the inspiration other bloggers give me is also one of the beauties of our community. The dress is very feminine, yet easy to wear. And nothing beats the feeling of silk against your skin... I am a bit unsure about the fit. The seams from the outer layer of the back did not quite meet, and the fit was a bit roomy at the waist so i took it in about 2cm in the back. The sizing is now good, not tight but not loose at the waist and just flowy enough in the skirt. But I find the bodice very blousy, which is not necesarily a bad thing, just not what I expected. I'm also not sure how I would adress the issue should I want to change it in a future version. The neckline is also very high, which is flattering but sometimes uncomfortable, so I would lower it just a touch next time. Finally, despite all my precautions with the back pieces (I fused a stirp of interfacing to the bias edge straight after cutting and was careful to handle the pieces as little as possible), one piece did stretch. Bleh. I pretend not to care, but it does bother me a bit... I still love this dress, though. That back is just too beautiful!

Meissa Blouse

Pattern: Meissa Blouse by Papercut Patterns, size M
Fabric: blush pink cotton from Stoff och Stil and black cotton shirting from Moods

Oh Meissa! It was love at first sight when Papercut released it's latest collection. I already had a vision of a light pink blouse and I spent a few months looking for the perfect fabric. I finally found this cotton at the big box fabric store here in Malmö. On the bolt, it was deliciously soft and light and had a nice sheen to it, but it became quite crisp and dull after washing. Still not sure what happened, but it is now not quite drapey as in the vision I had. My boyfriend expressed serious doubts about the color, saying it was the same colour as my skin, so I decided to break it up with some black for the collar and cuffs, which I am so pleased I did. It gives an interesting contrasting element and prevents me from being washed away by the pale color, which is, let's be honest, not my best colour.

What is there to say about the pattern more than it was a joy to work with? Everything, from the beautiful packaging to the lovely details in the style, is just so well thought out and nicely put together. I didn't make any adjustments except than shortening the sleeves, which is standard for me. I am pretty sure the gathering in the front yoke provides some bust shaping and the side seams curves in nicely at the waist, which makes for a very nice fit. Unlike everybody else, I am still on the fence about Grainline's Archer. Don't get me wrong, the Archer is a wonderful pattern, but I just feel that it is not the most flattering on me, because of the boyfriend style (which looks great on everybody except me it seems). I need to figure out how to put darts in the Archer for a more fitted style... Anyways, back to the Meissa, which has the more fitted look I prefer. The gathered details, the double buttons and the rounded collar are so feminine, too, and exactly the kind of details I love. I am now dreaming of another version, in silk, because I still want a flowy Meissa, no matter how much I like this one.

Also, May is approaching quickly, and May means Me-made-May! I participated last year for the first time and struggled a bit because I didn't have that many me-mades that I loved. But it is different this year, as I have been quite productive and learned to make things that I actually love and want to wear. So this year, I am challenging myself to wear at least one me-made item everyday, and to take a picture daily. Eek!! So:

 'I, Joëlle of thehandstitchedfiles.blogspot.se, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '14. I endeavour to wear at least one me-made item (handstitched or handknitted) of clothing each day for the duration of May 2014, and to record it daily on Instagram. '


P.S. All the pictures in this post are taken by my friend, Somayeh. She was kind enough to let me play model for her and I now have these beautiful pictures to share. Quite an improvment from my usual set up in my living room... Hopefully we can make these photo sessions a recurring thing!

Ninot in gold

Pattern: Ninot, by Pauline Alice, size 36
Fabric: wool blend lightweight coating from Minerva Crafts and silk recieved as a destash gift

Just in time for spring, I finally made myself a Ninot jacket. I bought the pattern the minute it was released and I was already then picturing it in this gold wool fabric I had previously bought with no plan in mind. The fabric is amazing, with gold lurex strands, so it actually sparkles! It paired wonderfully with the Ninot, even though I probably would choose a fabric with a bit more body for next time. It holds the deep pleat in the back wonderfully though, and it has a pretty texture, so I am happy anyways. I paired it with a silk lenght for the lining (it seems extravagant to use silk as a lining, but it is a colour and a pattern I wouldn't have use as self, so win-win!) and some gold buttons. The fabric frayed badly, so I chose not to make bound buttonholes and went for keyhole buttonholes on my machine.
I love, love, love this pattern. The drafting is great and everything goes together perfectly, the instructions are clear and the sizing is accurate, comparable to ready-to-wear. But what really makes Pauline's pattern so unique are really the details. This jacket has an eye-catching feature in teh back, with the deep pleat, but lots of great little details like tabs, yokes, a collar and a lining. I'm really disappointed every time a jacket pattern doesn't come with pattern pieces for a lining. I would much spend the extra effort and have a lined jacket, but maybe that is just me. Speaking of the collar, I decided to leave it out, which is quite shocking for me, considering my love of collars. But I loved the retro-but-updated the collarless version had and decided to give it a try. I'm really pleased with the result, which is decidedly more modern and polished. Another great pattern from Pauline! The Carme blouse is on already all prepped, but I need to find the perfect fabric first...

Teal Anna

Pattern: Anna dress by By Hand London
Fabric: teal polyester, bought in India

So, I'm late to the party (I am always late to the party), but Anna is my new love. I suspect Flora will soon be, but I believe in polygamy when it comes to sewing patterns! This is the first of two Annas so far, and I see more coming, probably with skirt variations. I would be wearing this dress all the time if it wasn't for the fabric. The colour is gorgeous, but it is a flimsy, almost see-through polyester. It's a shame, but it clings to my legs despite me wearing a slip underneath, which is really annoying. It was also very difficult to work with, being so shifty, and the finishing is therefore not my best work. Other than that, it is a beautiful dress, very classic and feminine.

Denim Thurlows and a cotton blouse

Patterns: Sewaholic Thurlows, modified to a straight leg and Stil 8271
Fabrics: black denim for the trousers and a cotton lawn for the blouse

Another double today, with two items I am especially proud of! First up is a little blouse from a vintage swedish Stil pattern. What really makes this bouse really is the fabric: a soft, flowy cotton I purchased at Moods in New York during the holidays. It is probably the nicest fabric I have ever worked with, which made sewing up this blouse a real treat. The drape of the cotton works very well with the cap sleeves of the pattern, and the geometric print makes it very easy to wear.

The second make I have to show off today is a pair of denim Thurlows. People, I made a legit pair of pants. With a working fly and beautiful welt pockets and everything. I did get very friendly with my seam ripper while trying to sew the fly, but I got there in the end. The fit is far from perfect, but these are straight from the envelope, apart from the obvious modification to the width of the legs. I am pretty happy to have these as a starting point to perfect the fit in future iterations, and will happily wear them. The fit is actually not worse than RTW pants, so I am pretty pleased.

Chardon and Audrey

An old project and a new one, today. First is the Chardon skirt, by Deer and Doe. A super cute, easy skirt that I made in black linen-look cotton from Minerva to fill a gap in my wardrobe. A skirt that I reach for everyday, with it's shape that flatters me and neutral color. The second is actually my fisrt make of the year! I startedknitting it around Christmas and finished it yesterday. So it took me exactly a month to knit a sweater, which i think is a record for me. I did a lot of knitting during the holidays and my sewing machine is packed up as i redecorate my sewing room, so i have been compensating my desire to sew with knitting. This little cardigan is Audrey in Unst and it was a fun knit with a pretty bib detail. What i like the most with this cardigan is the yarn, though. I used a merino/cashmere/silk blend from Sublime my dad bought me as a late birthday present. It feels very luxurious and the color is just amazing. Ravelry project notes here!

Pencil skirt à la Gertie

This is my third iteration of this pattern. I can safely say it is my most repeated pattern... There is something so satisfying in sewing a pencil skirt. Once you have the fit sorted out, it goes together very quickly, especially if it isn't lined and it is such a wardrobe staple. At least for me! Even paired with a simple long sleeve tshirt, like here, I feel polished and grown-up. And what can I say more about this print than I love it? It's just gorgeous. It a slightly stretchy cotton twill. I bought it a while back at the sewing and craft convention here in Malmö, and I got 2,5m thinking I would make a dress out of it, but it felt a bit overwhelming. So it became a pencil skirt, and now I have enough left for another item. I'm playing around with the idea of a bag... So that I could have this print with me all. the. time. Ha.

The pattern is the pencil skirt from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing. I really need to crack on the other patterns in this book. I love them all! But I think the shirtdress has to be next. Shortly followed by the coat. Ohhh.

Also, I turned 30 (!!) two week-ends ago, and I received the BEST birthday present from my boyfriend and his family...

Belladone

I have been sewing up a storm, but I don't have much pictures to show. Days are getting increasingly shorter and finding daylight is proving more and more challenging. I have also been quite absent from Instagram and blog commenting, although I am always avidly reading and getting inspired by all of you!

I haven't quite followed through with my sewing plans either. I am one skirt, a shirt for Erik and two refashions short. But as I have completed 7 of the 8 garments I had originally planned, I'm going to call that a success and make the skirt later. I did make a little Chardon that I hope to share soon!

So here is my Belladone. I'm really late to the party, as usual, but better late than never! I'm really liking this pattern, simple but with a striking feature with the open back. It was fun to make, quick (as it is not lined) and it's really easy to wear. I made a straight size 38 and other than lowering the bust dart a little for my next version, there is not much adjustments needed. The back opening is gaîng a bit depending on how I stand, but I'm afraid I'd restrain my movement ability if I made adjustments there. I did sew strips of selvage on the bias edge, so I'm pretty sure that they did not stretch. About that, the pattern instructions suggests that you sew strips of bias to prevent the bias edges of the back opening from stretching, which I find really odd. Any thoughts on that?

The fabric is a cotton from Minerva Crafts. It's a bit stiff, which works well for this style, and well, dots! Makes me happy. Also, it seems to me that Minerva has lowered their shipping prices, which makes it that much more fun for me to order from them, and the selection is huge, and I loove the blogger network. It's just so great seeing the fabric in action and getting some thoughts on it.