The bra story

Pattern: Pin-up Girls Classic bra, size 30D, slightly modified to fit my wires
Fabric: White dotted cotton from stash, white powernet from Sewing chest and white notion kit from Merckwaerdigh on Etsy.

I have been wanting to sew lingerie for a long time, ever since Amy over at Cloth Habit posted her serie about bra-making. I had great plans then to follow the sew-along and learn how to make beautiful, handmade bras. I entusiastically bought kits from Merckwaerdigh, a pattern from Pin-Up girls, and fiddled around with plush and picot elastics. The results were, sadly, less than stellar and I quickly lost interest, confused between powermesh, stretch lace, linings and trims.

Around the same time, probably due to my extensive research about bras and fit, I realised I had been wearing the wrong size bra. No wonder, since my size is barely available in specialty lingerie stores, and definetely nowhere to be found in the usual chain stores. (As a side note, I do not consider that I have a large bust. The letters in the size of my bra have very little to do with the actual size of my breasts, as the volume they refer to is in direct correlation to the lenght of the band, and my breast are certainly not bigger because my bras are! It took me forever to actually really understand this, and I will not try to explain. Rather, I suggest you go read what Butterfly Collection has do say on the subject.) I discovered high quality bras that fitted very well and were pretty and fun and colourful, like Freya and Panache, and for a while I was happy with my drawer full of store-bought lingerie. Who said I have to make everything?

So I continued, for the last year, to admire Novitas and Amys beautiful bras, thinking that "one day" I would be skilled enough to sew a bra that actually fitted. Then Tasia, from Sewaholic, started to post lingerie too, and it somehow managed to give me the kick I needed. I suddenly was super inspired, and eager to finally demystify bramaking.

I re-read all of Amy's sewalong posts and studied my RTW bras. I finally understood what parts need to stretch (the back band), and which should not (pretty much everything else), and that was the lightbulb moment for me. So I simply sat down, traced a 30D from my Pin-Up Girls Classic bra pattern, cut my fabric, a little lace to be pretty and constructed a bra. Just like that! Well, I had also ordered a few different wires in different models and sizes from the Sewing Chest and that also really helped in getting a good end reslut. The sewing itself is rather simple. Inserting all the different elastics does take a bit of practice, but is not really difficult. It does require a lot of precision, which I rather enjoyed. The hardest was attatching the hooks, I had to unpick several times because I was not catching everything properly.

The result is a bra that is very wearable, which I a super happy and proud of. I always considered it a muslin, and there are many things I will adjust for my next version, and my stitching can also be perfected. About the pattern, I will say that the instructions are extremely detailed and pertinent. The fit is quite good, straight of the envelope, on me at least, and feels quite true to size. The model is, however, quite dated. The bra gives lots of coverage, and the wide straps feels a bit old (i do think I messed up somehow with the elastics and seam allowances and that my straps are larger than they are intended to be). It also gives me a very pointy shape, which is awesome for a retro look, but maybe not what I would go for daily. I believe that all of this will be easily altered with a bit of drafting and Amy's helpful posts.

p.s. My lingerie photographing skills are also something I hope to improve... ;)

Work in progress - Laurel

I received my Laurel pattern last week, just in time for the long Easter week-end. I still hold a grudge on Colette patterns for the insanely high shipping prices, but at least the shipping was extremely fast. (I know, I could have downloaded the pdf, but I refuse to tape 76 or so sheets together if I have another option.) Anyways, I worked a bit on it during the week-end, until I had to stop because I didn't have matching thread... I remedied to that today, so I can get back at it. Soon. After I finish my Datura... oh Datura. So lovely. But that's for another post.

 I cut a mix of three sizes, hopefully things work out well. The side seams should be easy enough to take in if it ends up too big.

Then I set out to make the appliqué at the front neckline. I started by drawing triangles on the pattern i a shape I liked and transferred the markings to the fabric. I also interfaced the main fabric, as I was about to cut into it and did not wanted to risk fraying. I chose the most lightweight interfacing I had on hand, hopefully it doesn't affect the fall of the fashion fabric. The fabric is by the way the most beautiful shade of reddish purple, but I failed to photograph the color accurately... Artificial lighting, you know. It is most likely a poly or poly blend, as I bought it in India last november. It does however have a beautiful drape and is quite soft and lovely to the touch.

Then, I pinned a piece of cream satin behind and then basted between the shapes. Then I cut out all the triangles, very carefully.

My plan is now to go around each shape with a satin stitch on my machine to create the appliqué. I tested on some scraps and it turned out quite like I want it to do.

I'll be back with the finished dress!

Work in progress - burdastyle LBD

I spent the week-end working on my dress for the Burdastyle Vintage modern sewing contest, and I made lots of progress.

I made the final adjustments to the muslin as I was not quite happy with the sleeve. I have to say I totally hacked the sleeve by tracing a sleeve from another Burda pattern and adjusting the bodice armhole accordingly. I sewed a muslin (ok several) and adjusted from there until I was happy with the fit. I know it is absolutely not the proper way to do this, but it worked well enough. I am not quite ready to dive into block-making (too much maths involved, ha). I then ripped the muslin apart and used it as my pattern pieces. I was the first time I did that and it was quite a revelation. The pattern doesn't move at all on the fabric, and it solves the problem of what to do with muslins... I don't muslin quite as much as I probably should, so maybe this is another argument in favour of muslins?

Pinning pattern pieces to lace fabric.

 I then proceeded to cut the pieces for the bodice in both the lace and the underlining fabric, a black polysatin. I also cut pieces for an all-in-one facing. I debated wether I should line the bodice or use a facing. I thought the bodice was thick enough so the lining or facing was just to enclose seam allowances. I opted for the facing because I judged it would be easier to deal with, considering the thickness and body of the underlining. I always find it hard when a light and drapey fabric meet a stiffer one. Also, my fabrics are not fraying much, so a full lining wasn't mandatory. I did have concerns about the whole thing beeing too bulky, but it turned out ok.

I am treating the satin as a underlining for the bodice and a lining for the skirt, hopefully that won't cause any unexpected problems. For the bodice pieces, I hand-basted the lace to the satin, both facing up, and treated them as one piece of fabric for the rest of the process.

Basting the fashion fabric to the underlining.

 Then I constructed the bodice. The pattern has really lovely curved darts, which makes for a really nice fit.

Pinning darts. Front bodice at the top, back bodice at the bottom.

I setted the sleeves flat (another sewing first!), thinking it would make it easier to sew the facing in this was. I first basted the sleeve to the bodice, and then pinned the facing, and finally sewing the whole thing together. It was pretty akward, with the different curves, and making sure not to catch any layer in the seam. I did have to rip and redo a few times after sewing in the facing. Lastly, I sewed the facing on at the neckline and turned everything right-side out through the shoulders.

That is as far as I got. Here is the list of what is left to do
- understitch the seam allowance to the facing unit. I think I'll do it by hand, it's far neater and it makes the dress feel much more luxurious.
 - sew side seams and underarm seams
- pleat the skirt pieces and attach to the bodice
- bind the waist seam in some way
- insert zipper at center front. I am planning a lapped, handpricked zipper. I think it will really be invisible, considering the lace pattern.
- hem the skirt lining and hem sleeves and skirt by cutting the lace.
- if needed, sew in a waiststay.
Oh. That looks like a lot when I write down everything, but I think it'll be 3 to 4 hours of work. I'm really trying to take my time and make it well. Handstitching when it makes a difference, for example. I still have a few weeks before the closing date of the contest, so I am confident I'll finish in time to enter.

Now I'm off to do that understitching!