Ninot in gold

Pattern: Ninot, by Pauline Alice, size 36
Fabric: wool blend lightweight coating from Minerva Crafts and silk recieved as a destash gift

Just in time for spring, I finally made myself a Ninot jacket. I bought the pattern the minute it was released and I was already then picturing it in this gold wool fabric I had previously bought with no plan in mind. The fabric is amazing, with gold lurex strands, so it actually sparkles! It paired wonderfully with the Ninot, even though I probably would choose a fabric with a bit more body for next time. It holds the deep pleat in the back wonderfully though, and it has a pretty texture, so I am happy anyways. I paired it with a silk lenght for the lining (it seems extravagant to use silk as a lining, but it is a colour and a pattern I wouldn't have use as self, so win-win!) and some gold buttons. The fabric frayed badly, so I chose not to make bound buttonholes and went for keyhole buttonholes on my machine.
I love, love, love this pattern. The drafting is great and everything goes together perfectly, the instructions are clear and the sizing is accurate, comparable to ready-to-wear. But what really makes Pauline's pattern so unique are really the details. This jacket has an eye-catching feature in teh back, with the deep pleat, but lots of great little details like tabs, yokes, a collar and a lining. I'm really disappointed every time a jacket pattern doesn't come with pattern pieces for a lining. I would much spend the extra effort and have a lined jacket, but maybe that is just me. Speaking of the collar, I decided to leave it out, which is quite shocking for me, considering my love of collars. But I loved the retro-but-updated the collarless version had and decided to give it a try. I'm really pleased with the result, which is decidedly more modern and polished. Another great pattern from Pauline! The Carme blouse is on already all prepped, but I need to find the perfect fabric first...

Earlly Fall Sewing #4: Anise

Just in time for the first chilly mornings, I completed the fourth item of my fall wardrobe. The Anise is the one Colette pattern I bought the second it was released. The clean lines, the peter pan collar and the little tailored details, such as the welt pockets, appealed to me. But then it sat in my pattern box, waiting for the perfect fabric.

When I was planning my fall wardrobe, I really wanted to include a jacket. Partly for the challenge of sewing a jacket, partly because I wanted a new jacket. I can't be bothered to go shopping for a specific item anymore... The Anise was given, and then I thought about the linen herringbone fabric I had bought in Paris with just a jacket in mind. I immediately envisioned this jacket, and I am pleased to report it turned out exactly as I imagined it. This Anise is probably the garment I am the most proud of so far. Good it's a jacket, so I get to wear it everyday!

I didn't do any changes to the pattern, apart from modifications to make it fit. I made a muslin (I was not going to gamble this one), and ended up taking it quite a lot in the princess seams in the back. I also remembered to shorten the sleeves. Now I keep thinking the sleeves are too short, when they actually are the right lenght, because I am so used to sleeves that are too long. Eh. The fit is really nice through the shoulders, and the lenght is perfect to wear with a dress. No long-ish cardigans, though. I like it's not too fitted, but not boxy either. As all double-breasted jackets, it looks much better when buttoned.

I changed the order of construction, and made the welt pockets first, so that the facings would not be in the way when making them. I also waited to have the facing attached before making the small windows for the bound buttonholes, so that they end up in exactly the right place. I made all eight bound buttonholes, but only opened windows in the facing for the four that are in use. I didn't see the point of slashing into my garment for a buttonhole that would be sewn close anyways. The buttons are leather, and utterly perfect. Worth every penny.

The fabric is a soft linen herringbone in blue and cream tones. From afar it reads grey, somehow, but it has a lovely texture. The weave is quite loose, but the fabric behaved quite well anyways. I was afrait the fabric was a bit on the flimsy side, so I underlined with a heavy cotton, which worked wonders. I underlined even the sleeves, even it was not called for in the pattern, which I'm glad I did. I regret not underlining the upper collar, as it is a bit shifty. The undercollar is fused, so it works anyways as it has a stable layer. Underlining was quite a revelation. It was fascinating to see how the fabric behaves completely different when attached to another, heavier fabric.


As I said, this is probably my best garment so far. It is one of the most technically advanced projects I have made, and it is of much superior quality than the other jackets I've made in the past. I'm really proud of what I have accomplished with this garment, and I think it really shows how far I have come in my sewing in the past year. So to celebrate that, here comes way too many pictures...

oh, and also:
<a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/blog/4551245/?claim=azwd4895bz8">Follow my blog with Bloglovin</a>