Creating my dream closet, one stitch at the time
Showing posts with label deer and doe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label deer and doe. Show all posts
Sunday, January 26, 2014
Chardon and Audrey
An old project and a new one, today. First is the Chardon skirt, by Deer and Doe. A super cute, easy skirt that I made in black linen-look cotton from Minerva to fill a gap in my wardrobe. A skirt that I reach for everyday, with it's shape that flatters me and neutral color. The second is actually my fisrt make of the year! I startedknitting it around Christmas and finished it yesterday. So it took me exactly a month to knit a sweater, which i think is a record for me. I did a lot of knitting during the holidays and my sewing machine is packed up as i redecorate my sewing room, so i have been compensating my desire to sew with knitting. This little cardigan is Audrey in Unst and it was a fun knit with a pretty bib detail. What i like the most with this cardigan is the yarn, though. I used a merino/cashmere/silk blend from Sublime my dad bought me as a late birthday present. It feels very luxurious and the color is just amazing. Ravelry project notes here!
Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Belladone
I have been sewing up a storm, but I don't have much pictures to show. Days are getting increasingly shorter and finding daylight is proving more and more challenging. I have also been quite absent from Instagram and blog commenting, although I am always avidly reading and getting inspired by all of you!
I haven't quite followed through with my sewing plans either. I am one skirt, a shirt for Erik and two refashions short. But as I have completed 7 of the 8 garments I had originally planned, I'm going to call that a success and make the skirt later. I did make a little Chardon that I hope to share soon!
So here is my Belladone. I'm really late to the party, as usual, but better late than never! I'm really liking this pattern, simple but with a striking feature with the open back. It was fun to make, quick (as it is not lined) and it's really easy to wear. I made a straight size 38 and other than lowering the bust dart a little for my next version, there is not much adjustments needed. The back opening is gaîng a bit depending on how I stand, but I'm afraid I'd restrain my movement ability if I made adjustments there. I did sew strips of selvage on the bias edge, so I'm pretty sure that they did not stretch. About that, the pattern instructions suggests that you sew strips of bias to prevent the bias edges of the back opening from stretching, which I find really odd. Any thoughts on that?
The fabric is a cotton from Minerva Crafts. It's a bit stiff, which works well for this style, and well, dots! Makes me happy. Also, it seems to me that Minerva has lowered their shipping prices, which makes it that much more fun for me to order from them, and the selection is huge, and I loove the blogger network. It's just so great seeing the fabric in action and getting some thoughts on it.
I haven't quite followed through with my sewing plans either. I am one skirt, a shirt for Erik and two refashions short. But as I have completed 7 of the 8 garments I had originally planned, I'm going to call that a success and make the skirt later. I did make a little Chardon that I hope to share soon!
So here is my Belladone. I'm really late to the party, as usual, but better late than never! I'm really liking this pattern, simple but with a striking feature with the open back. It was fun to make, quick (as it is not lined) and it's really easy to wear. I made a straight size 38 and other than lowering the bust dart a little for my next version, there is not much adjustments needed. The back opening is gaîng a bit depending on how I stand, but I'm afraid I'd restrain my movement ability if I made adjustments there. I did sew strips of selvage on the bias edge, so I'm pretty sure that they did not stretch. About that, the pattern instructions suggests that you sew strips of bias to prevent the bias edges of the back opening from stretching, which I find really odd. Any thoughts on that?
The fabric is a cotton from Minerva Crafts. It's a bit stiff, which works well for this style, and well, dots! Makes me happy. Also, it seems to me that Minerva has lowered their shipping prices, which makes it that much more fun for me to order from them, and the selection is huge, and I loove the blogger network. It's just so great seeing the fabric in action and getting some thoughts on it.
Thursday, August 15, 2013
Early fall sewing #1: Datura
It is no secret by now that I have a pattern crush on Deer and Doe's Datura. this is my third version, and I keep thinking if new ones. I like the simplicity of the design and the clever details. The contrast yoke allows for endless fabric combinations and the collar options for variation.
For this one I traced a size smaller (36) than the previous ones, and the fit is much better. I wasn't too noticeable in my first Datura because the fabric was quite drapey, but the fit across the bust was an issue in the stiffer cotton of my second version. Now, there is no gaping at the armholes and the fit around the bust and shoulders is better. I made view B with the Peter pan collar, obviously. The collar turned out very narrow and there is a gap at the center front, where the two collar pieces should meet. I'm not quite sure of what I did wrong, as I did not encounter that issue on my first Datura. It's bothering me a bit... Maybe the seam allowance on the collar is only 3/8"? Oh well, it's not going to stop me from wearing it.
I used a beige satin for the yoke and collar and a navy cotton voile for the main pieces and facings. The satin was a leftover from other projects and the cotton is a coupon from Paris. I'm glad I went with the cotton for the facing as it is nicer to have on my skin than the ployester of the satin. I've had this colout combination on my mind for a while now, so I'm pleased it's finally made it's was into a garment. I have lots of the lovely navy cotton left, as it was a 3m coupon and the Datura doesn't eat much fabric. I think I'll turn the remaining 2m into a dress with som colour contrast. Or an Archer... I'm quite liking sewing shirts!
For this one I traced a size smaller (36) than the previous ones, and the fit is much better. I wasn't too noticeable in my first Datura because the fabric was quite drapey, but the fit across the bust was an issue in the stiffer cotton of my second version. Now, there is no gaping at the armholes and the fit around the bust and shoulders is better. I made view B with the Peter pan collar, obviously. The collar turned out very narrow and there is a gap at the center front, where the two collar pieces should meet. I'm not quite sure of what I did wrong, as I did not encounter that issue on my first Datura. It's bothering me a bit... Maybe the seam allowance on the collar is only 3/8"? Oh well, it's not going to stop me from wearing it.
I used a beige satin for the yoke and collar and a navy cotton voile for the main pieces and facings. The satin was a leftover from other projects and the cotton is a coupon from Paris. I'm glad I went with the cotton for the facing as it is nicer to have on my skin than the ployester of the satin. I've had this colout combination on my mind for a while now, so I'm pleased it's finally made it's was into a garment. I have lots of the lovely navy cotton left, as it was a 3m coupon and the Datura doesn't eat much fabric. I think I'll turn the remaining 2m into a dress with som colour contrast. Or an Archer... I'm quite liking sewing shirts!
Saturday, June 22, 2013
Datura 2.0 (the Art Deco Datura)
Oh Datura. Such a perfect little summer top! I am considering drafting some sleeves for it. Wouldn't it be a wonderful blouse even in the wintertime?
This is my second version, and I made the first view, in size 38. I think I need to go down a size, as it is a bit big. I could take in the size seams, but I did french seams, and I am a bit lazy... It is the same size as my first version , but the fabric is stiffer, and the size issue is more noticeable.
A detail shot of the neckline. It would be really easy to mess that bit up. You have to pin the bias tape quite perfectly, not stretching it, and not too loosely either. The cotton I used was helpful for that part because it really stayed put, but I can see this being really fiddly. And then you have to be very precise with the topstitching. I am still working on that skill, but practice makes perfect!
* Is about 10 lenghts of fabric a stash? hmmm, I guess it is... it does, however, feels like my closet in the morning. Full of stuff, but nothing interesting enough!
This is my second version, and I made the first view, in size 38. I think I need to go down a size, as it is a bit big. I could take in the size seams, but I did french seams, and I am a bit lazy... It is the same size as my first version , but the fabric is stiffer, and the size issue is more noticeable.
The fabric is a pretty floral cotton which I think has a nice art deco vibe to it. I had to resort to quilting cotton for the contrast yoke, and while it was super easy to work with, it is a bit too stiff to drape nicely. I am really into the cut-outs, and they echo the geometry of the print nicely.
Again, I just sewed the buttons through all layers without doing buttonholes. I'm not really friendly with the buttonhole function on my machine... I placed the buttons quite high. I see now that I need to work on my patternmatching skills, but really, it's not bothering me. It may bother someone walking behind me on the street. Not that I care. I also finished the hem with bias tape, and I LOVE the result. There is a nice weight to the hem, and the curve is perfect. Now I want to hem everything with bias tape!
A detail shot of the neckline. It would be really easy to mess that bit up. You have to pin the bias tape quite perfectly, not stretching it, and not too loosely either. The cotton I used was helpful for that part because it really stayed put, but I can see this being really fiddly. And then you have to be very precise with the topstitching. I am still working on that skill, but practice makes perfect!
Another detail of the pretty fabric. It had been in my stash* for a while, because it was horribly off grain and I didn't quite know what to do about that. So I pulled and thugged and in the end I cheated and cut the pieces off-grain. I'll probably have to pay for that after a few washes, but it felt better than having the pattern at an angle. So, all in all, I'm really happy with how this top turned out. There will be more Daturas to come, but I really need a skirt to wear them with!
* Is about 10 lenghts of fabric a stash? hmmm, I guess it is... it does, however, feels like my closet in the morning. Full of stuff, but nothing interesting enough!
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
A spring Datura
Let me introduce you to my latest pattern crush: the Datura blouse by Deer and Doe!
I also changed the construction a smidge and did french seams on the sides. It makes for a bit of bulk at the underarms, so I don't know if the was really so smart of me, but I couldn't resist. The clever construction with the faced yoke means that all the seams are enclosed, so I wanted to enclose the side seams as well. There are no raw edges at all inside this garment! I was a bit lazy and topstitched the yoke instead of handsewing it, but I quit like the result.
Spring has finally come, and I cannot sew only dresses, so I expect I will be sewing many more of these adorable little tops! The pattern, despite looking quite simple, is not for beginners. It is labeled "advanced", and I think it is quite right. It is filled with great details, like the double yoke, the detailing at the neckline and the buttons in the back, and it is great fun to sew.
I did not quite understand the instructions for the yoke. I am quite convinced it uses a very smart technique, but I couldn't wrap my head around it, so I solved my issues with a few handstitches at the shoulders. There are not many problems that cannot be solved with a few handstitches... The main fabric is a mystery fabric I bought in India last november, and the yoke is some satin. The wole thing is quite clingy of static electricity, but I do my best to ignore it, because I really like the fabric, and it is really soft on the skin.
I also changed the construction a smidge and did french seams on the sides. It makes for a bit of bulk at the underarms, so I don't know if the was really so smart of me, but I couldn't resist. The clever construction with the faced yoke means that all the seams are enclosed, so I wanted to enclose the side seams as well. There are no raw edges at all inside this garment! I was a bit lazy and topstitched the yoke instead of handsewing it, but I quit like the result.
The buttons in the back are such a pretty detail. I omitted the buttonholes and stitched the buttons through all layers. Yes, I'm lazy. Also, I turned the hem twice and stitched instead of facing with a bias tape as instructed. I wanted to to a narrow hem, but miscalculated and the hem ended up being much wider than I expected. But it worked out very well, without puckers despite the curve of the hem, so I let i be.
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