A spring Datura

Let me introduce you to my latest pattern crush: the Datura blouse by Deer and Doe!

Spring has finally come, and I cannot sew only dresses, so I expect I will be sewing many more of these adorable little tops! The pattern, despite looking quite simple, is not for beginners. It is labeled "advanced", and I think it is quite right. It is filled with great details, like the double yoke, the detailing at the neckline and the buttons in the back, and it is great fun to sew.

I did not quite understand the instructions for the yoke. I am quite convinced it uses a very smart technique, but I couldn't wrap my head around it, so I solved my issues with a few handstitches at the shoulders. There are not many problems that cannot be solved with a few handstitches... The main fabric is a mystery fabric I bought in India last november, and the yoke is some satin. The wole thing is quite clingy of static electricity, but I do my best to ignore it, because I really like the fabric, and it is really soft on the skin. 

 I also changed the construction a smidge and did french seams on the sides. It makes for a bit of bulk at the underarms, so I don't know if the was really so smart of me, but I couldn't resist. The clever construction with the faced yoke means that all the seams are enclosed, so I wanted to enclose the side seams as well. There are no raw edges at all inside this garment! I was a bit lazy and topstitched the yoke instead of handsewing it, but I quit like the result.

The buttons in the back are such a pretty detail. I omitted the buttonholes and stitched the buttons through all layers. Yes, I'm lazy. Also, I turned the hem twice and stitched instead of facing with a bias tape as instructed. I wanted to to a narrow hem, but miscalculated and the hem ended up being much wider than I expected. But it worked out very well, without puckers despite the curve of the hem, so I let i be.

A pencil skirt

I finally summoned the courage to sew a skirt on one of my threadles! I used entirely my old Singer (and a hand sewing needle) to sew this skirt. It was such a joy, really, to see all the prerfect stitches form under my eyes, and I cannot wait to do it again. I wanted an easy project, with simple seams, as my first attempt to threadle, and thought a pencil skirt would be just that. The fabric was in my stash, a remnant from an old, disastrous project, and I had just enough for this skirt.

The pattern is the pencil skirt from Gertie's new book for better sewing. I modified the waistband, because of fabric limitations. It is the second time I sew it, and, in all honesty, the first one fits much better. I think the fabric is to blame, this one is much thinner and doesn't have as much body, so all the wrinkles show. I'm still quite happy with it. My biggest mistake is thinking I could do away without a vent in the back. I can walk in it without problems, but biking (I bike to and from work everyday) is quite, ahem, unconfortable. 

Because of the color, I am afraid it will sit in my closet without seeing much light until fall comes, but I think it will make a great fall skirt! 

The zipper is a handpicked, lapped zipper. I am really pleased with my work. I also lined the skirt, but I have to go back and shorten the lining a bit. Because of the fitting issues, the skirt tends to ride up a bit, and the lining gets exposed. Oh, well. I do, however, love those darts. Why are two darts so much prettier than one?

Work in progress - Laurel

I received my Laurel pattern last week, just in time for the long Easter week-end. I still hold a grudge on Colette patterns for the insanely high shipping prices, but at least the shipping was extremely fast. (I know, I could have downloaded the pdf, but I refuse to tape 76 or so sheets together if I have another option.) Anyways, I worked a bit on it during the week-end, until I had to stop because I didn't have matching thread... I remedied to that today, so I can get back at it. Soon. After I finish my Datura... oh Datura. So lovely. But that's for another post.

 I cut a mix of three sizes, hopefully things work out well. The side seams should be easy enough to take in if it ends up too big.

Then I set out to make the appliqué at the front neckline. I started by drawing triangles on the pattern i a shape I liked and transferred the markings to the fabric. I also interfaced the main fabric, as I was about to cut into it and did not wanted to risk fraying. I chose the most lightweight interfacing I had on hand, hopefully it doesn't affect the fall of the fashion fabric. The fabric is by the way the most beautiful shade of reddish purple, but I failed to photograph the color accurately... Artificial lighting, you know. It is most likely a poly or poly blend, as I bought it in India last november. It does however have a beautiful drape and is quite soft and lovely to the touch.

Then, I pinned a piece of cream satin behind and then basted between the shapes. Then I cut out all the triangles, very carefully.

My plan is now to go around each shape with a satin stitch on my machine to create the appliqué. I tested on some scraps and it turned out quite like I want it to do.

I'll be back with the finished dress!

Laurel

So... I'm not breaking any news by telling that Colette patterns newest pattern is a little shift dress. I have to admit that my first thought was of disappointment. It is a really simple design, after all. And a shift dress? I never wear a shift.

Image from the Coletterie

But I have to say the idea of it grew on me. I never wear shift dresses because they never fit me. If they fit in the shoulders, then I cant pull the dress down over my hips. So I actually do not know if a shift could be a good style for me. I like to showcase and define my waist, but the idea of a more freeflowing garment is very attractive from a comfort point of view. I also quite like the idea of this dress being a blank canvas. I like clothes with simple lines and fun details and this pattern offers me just this. It is the perfect pattern for creative embelishment.

So I ordered a copy. A paper copy, despite the offensive shipping costs, because I avoid having to spend an hour taping together a zillion paper pieces if I don't have to. And a Colette pattern is such a pretty object in itself... It was shipped today, so I probably have a couple of weeks to scheme while the pattern travels from the other side of the world. I have this idea of combining appliqué and cut-out to create a pattern in a contrasting color at the neckline.

I see this as an experiment in style. I'm actually quite curious to see if I can pull of a shift dress, when it actually fits. We'll see!

My machines

I thought I'd introduce my sewing machines, as I would not write this blog if I didn't have them. Well, one of them, at least!

First, my trusty Elna.

When I moved to Sweden 5 years ago, my boyfriend's mother asked if I would like to have her old sewing machine. I wasn't really sewing clothes at that time, but I thought it would be perfect for sewing all the curtains our appartment desperately needed. I've become quite fond of my Elna, and she does everything I want quite nicely, except for buttonholes. She doesn't like buttonholes. Or maybe it's me who is afraid of buttonholes... She is a Elna Special, from around 1974.


Last fall, I became quite obsessed with having a vintage sewing machine. I was quite into the little machines in a suitcase from the 50s, but also dreaming of having a threadle. So after scouring Blocket (the swedish Craig's list), i found my Husqvarna.  I like to think that I have a living piece of swedish history...

This machine is a Husqvarna CB, and from what I can tell from my research, from around the 1910s. It was the machine of the grandmother of the man I bought it from, and you can tell that she used it quite a lot, but also that she took good care of her. She produces a beautiful stitch, but is quite hard to threadle.

And then last week, this one arrived and stole the show...

She had lived, forgotten, in the basement of my boyfriend's parents until they realised I might like to have it. Eh, yes, please! I was not quite expecting for her to be so beautiful... She is a Singer 66K and the serial number tells me she is from 1916. The singer 66 was a very popular machine, so my machine is by ne means rare, but she does have a less common decal, called "Lotus" and inspired by egyptian flowers.

I had to take her apart and clean out 90 years of dust and oil her, but she is working like a charm. She also produces the most beautiful stitches, and the tension is perfect. She is in much better condition than my Husqvarna, which is quite worn in places.The stitches are quite long, though, and I am not quite sure how to adjust that. I'm also not quite sure I threaded her accurately... I wish I had the manual. But hopefully the internet will not disappoint!

So now I promised my boyfriend to make an entire project on each of my threadles. I'm a bit scared, as they are not really easy to control, but quite excited at the same time. A part of me says I should sew a vintage pattern, but that would also be a first. Maybe I should start with something simpler. I do have the pencil skirt from Gertie's book cut out from a burnt orange cotton twill, but I has lost interest as the color is so "fally" (yeah, I just made that word up). Wouldn't that be a good first threadle project?

What are your machines?

I am a finalist!

I surely didn't expect that much, and I am much excited about it! There are some seriously awesome dresses amongst the finalists and I feel quite honoured to be one of them!

Go have a look and vote for your favorite!

The little black dress

Every lady should have a little black dress.

I had been dreaming of a lace dress for some time. With a full skirt and sheer lace sleeves... And then there was this black lace fabric on sale at the fabric store. I bought 3 meters of it, along with some black satin and began scheming. After lots of hand stitches, i now have a new favorite dress. Anyone want to go party with me so that I have a reason to wear it?

I incorporated a few "couture" techniques in the process, just because I love how it looks. The dress feels so luxurious because of all the time and attention I put in it. The facing is understitched by hand with a prick stitch and the zipper is inserted by hand. I binded the waist seam with self-fabric bias tape and added a waist stay, as the skirt is quite heavy. I am also happy with how the "hemming" of the skirt and sleeves worked out, with the decoupage of the lace. I love the scalloped effect!

I am really happy with the dress! The skirt is less full then I envisioned, but I think it makes the dress more modern.

Back view.  Yes that is ice on the pond.

I love the V in the back. Also notice the guys posing on the other side of the pond. You think he also has a sewing blog?

The fit is also quite good. A tad big in the waist, maybe. The waist stay need to be a little tighter.

Pleats in front and back.

Detail, showing the understitching and the fell stitching on the facing.

The hem, inside out. Yes, I pinked the SA, it makes me happy!

Inside out, showing the waist stay and the all in one facing.

The zipper was inserted by hand. The stitches completely disappear in the lace.

This dress is also my entry for the Burda style Sewing vintage modern contest. Hop over there and vote for your favorite frock!